Peg a few weeks after she came back from working on poor quality dry dog food for a year.
Almost a year later Peg's tail is still to clean up; she's a bit fat here after weaning pups.
Jesse is 18 years old here and still working. She's been fed raw all her life.
Healthy pups grow into healthy dogs. These 4 week old pups are eating the same food as the bitch twice a day.

Health info

CA (Cerebellar Abiotrophy) is a nasty genetic fault in many breeds of dogs but is a big problem in Working Kelpies because of their relatively small genetic base and the impossibility of introducing clear bloodlines. I wrote about this in my May 2020 blog which can be accessed in Archives. Testing has at last become available and although not 100% at this time, because of the complicated nature of the problem, the accuracy will improve as more dogs are tested and more information gained. I am testing my sires and all are clear. All bitches have tested clear. Any outside sire used will also be tested before use.

The article below contains much to digest; of course vets do a great job in emergency situations, but if we can reduce the number of expensive bills we have, why not?!

Why are we seeing so much disease in our Dogs!??

I hear this question all the time, and the answer is quite simple….. Meet Duke.  Duke is 5 months old, and is at VERY low risk for any kind of disease with just a few simple adjustments. If he were a puppy in the average home today, he would have had and or be getting the following toxins: *3 SETS of vaccinations *2 or 3 baths with a chemical shampoo *3 applications of toxic flea treatment *2 applications of toxic treatment for mites *4 applications of toxic heartworm treatment *5 to 6 applications of toxic parasite treatments *eating toxic laden dead dry kibble *drinking water loaded with chemicals *playing with toxic toys *chewing on toxic dental sticks *eating chemical laden ‘treats’ walking on grass treated with chemicals He also may have been sterilized by now which would mean medications that are very hard on the organs and antibiotics which destroy the gut (some say the gut can never fully recover from antibiotic use). The body would have been traumatized by cutting it open, and the mind traumatized by the whole experience. The combination of the bacterial die off from the stress and the antibiotics combined with the loss of hormone activity and build up of toxins leave a body prime for disease. ?

Many Say…. Why do all these dogs have cancer?? ?

I say…. Why are you taking your dog to the vet?? ?? What are you feeding your dog?? How clean is your water? Do you know there are effective nontoxic alternatives for vaccinations?? Do you know leaving a dog intact is MUCH better for his or her health and there are healthy alternatives if you must sterilize?? Do you know that all your conventional vet can offer you is medications and surgery which are very hard on the body and its auto response systems?? Do you know that the auto response system are EXTREMELY powerful and designed to protect your dog from disease??



The best way to keep your dog healthy over a long lifetime is to look after its immune system(auto response system) so it can manage any health problems it might face. This also applies to us! We also should eat less refined sugar and grains and less salt!

Peanut What a difference a month makes!

This little pup came to me at 5 1/2 wks in lieu of a service fee. She very nearly died…insufficient milk from the bitch, chemical wormer, canned puppy food….She developed an allergy to grass, got a huge rash and lost most of her hair.

Shown in the first photo with a half brother the same age from my Quizz litter, and again below (with pink collar) with the same pup. I gave her pet mince and some freeze dried tripe to get her going.

I am mixing my own raw diet and it’s so easy to start the pups on solids, they just get a bit of the adults’ mix: a  mince of chicken frames from Angliss with DE (diatomaceous earth is fresh water fossil powder) and Big Dog Boost (for preference) or Pets’ Natural Health Booster( helps replace vits and mins that have been depleted from our soils). Adult dogs get a soup spoon of DE as a periodic treatment for about a week twice a year, pups a teaspoon daily….I mix the two powders with kefir that I make myself and add to the mince. The amount of kefir doesn’t matter, it’s impossible to give too much…within reason! Kefir is full of excellent goodies that encourage the gut bacteria and promote good digestion. Omega oils are also added. When mixing the DE in it’s a bit approximate because the amount of mince fed varies according to the weight of the adults, but to establish a ratio of DE to mince: work out how many dogs a kilo of mince usually feeds and then measure the appropriate amount of DE into a jam tin, mark the tin with a waterproof texta  and keep it permanently in the DE container….then you can easily make up multiple amounts. I add a good handful of the Health Booster to 6 kg of pet mince but it probably should be more.The dogs also get lamb bones every day, the pups bits of lamb flaps or boned out chicken frames.

This year, 2020, I have reared about 100 pups. The bitches had big litters and all pups survived bar one, born to Tash on a very cold night. No pups have been sick. I decided to add kefir to their mince as the local dairy was once again milking, and have done this consistently over the year, probably 3-4 litres to about 6-8kg of mince. Kefir is full of probiotics, much better than yoghurt and a big boost to the pups’ ability to cope with solids. I have also been giving a spoonful of the pup mince to the pregnant bitches for the last three weeks of pregnancy which appears to have virtually stopped deaths at birth. Live and learn!

Everyone who has seen my dogs here asks what I feed them, so I’ll share a few things I’ve learned through referring all my questions on nutrition to Marina Angel Smith who has studied canine nutrition in depth. Vet students study animal nutrition but it isn’t broken up into herbivores, carnivores and omnivores but treated as one subject; there is a huge difference in the digestion and diet of these groups of animals. Of course most vets are promoting dry foods in their practices(to their financial benefit, treating the resultant health problems!). Pet food companies have so infiltrated the vet scene that in the States a text book on nutrition used by Vet. science courses is printed by one of them.

I know feeding raw food on farm can be time consuming and sometimes impossible, and that working dogs are considered ‘ better’ fed these days because of the convenience of dry food….BUT…..the working lifetime of dogs has been considerably reduced by grain based diets which cause arthritis etc from about 8 years. Marina’s dogs that have been on raw all their lives have consistently lived to 20 and she has an 18 year old bitch today who is still working well. Try to give your dogs at least a few raw feeds a week and use a good quality dry food if you have to, most are bulked out with grains and use processed offal for protein. The high heat in processing destroys much of the good. I used some air dried Kiwi Peak for a sick bitch this year; she recovered quickly so I gave a small handful to nursing bitches daily to use it up. The result was obvious, extra shiny coats and more milk. If I fed it exclusively I’d really have to up my prices a lot!! But it did ram home to me what big differences there are, and that you pay for quality.

Many ‘old timers’ remember dogs who regularly lived to 15 and over, fed mainly on rabbits, ‘killer sheep’ and roos. These dogs often looked pretty lean but lived long and useful lives. The calcium in dry foods can’t be absorbed by dogs and their body puts out its own stores until it runs out. The only calcium available with correct magnesium and potassium balance so dogs can absorb it is in BONES…not surprising really! And yet I’ve had people tell me their vet told them not to feed bones…hard to believe, but the same vet recommended an expensive  dry food which has been proven to contain euthanised animals! Vets are also onto a new cash cow….cleaning teeth. Bones do this naturally and the dog has fun at the same time!

Be careful feeding roo meat and dry food, it’s not a good mix. Roo meat is OK for fat dogs, or with fat mixed, but takes a lot of digesting because of the high nitrogen fixation, and takes as much energy to digest as it contains…in pregnant/whelping bitches this can result in milk fever and fitting, because of calcium being leached from their systems. The only way to remedy this is with bone meal or bones, not calcium syrup which can’t be absorbed readily  by dogs. Often people add the syrup to pup food but they should be feeding them bones; small pups can eat chicken frames from about 6 weeks and minced frames are readily available for younger pups.

I recently wrote an article for an online magazine that is relevant here:

I have been feeding my dogs and pups a raw diet for many years, and can honestly say I have never had any of those on-going issues like itchy skin, bad anal glands, smelly breath, yellowy brown teeth, etc. that are so common these days….and of course my dogs aren’t fat. The diet I feed is by no means perfect, but after reading a very well researched book that has recently been published I’d have to say just about anything within reason would be better than a dry food diet! 

And the most interesting thing? The advice that all dry food is bad and don’t even think the more expensive ones are much better than the cheap ones!

“Feeding Dogs” by Dr. Conor Brady, is a must read for anyone who cares about the health of their pet. He has researched the raw vs. dry food question to the best of his ability, but the extremely invasive influence of the big International pet food companies, eg. Mars, Nestle and Purina, has made the results of any trials comparing the two …well, a bit of a joke. In fact there has never been a well funded, professionally run trial that has assessed raw as opposed to dry food on a large scale.

These companies are so powerful, they have influenced the veterinary schools in many Universities in America, and have reps on AAFCO which sets the standards for pet food virtually world wide…. and are now buying up chains of Vet practices as with Greencross. 

Most vets are not taught any basic canine nutrition during their course, rather are schooled to stock Hills Science Diet in their future clinics and often recommend against raw feeding simply through ignorance. 

It goes without saying that the main aim of these huge multinationals is making the highest profit possible, and it also goes without saying that they are hardly likely to use healthy, fresh, expensive ingredients in these products. I knew the basics of Dr. Brady’s argument before starting his book but it still shocked me to the core. The heavy loading of the dry foods with cheap carbs from doubtful sources is at the basis of his findings; the lengths they go to finding cheap proteins is just horrifying… dead cats and dogs that have been euthanised and meat from dead, dying and diseased animals that has to be made unfit for humans by spraying with carbolic acid and other approved nasties, but then considered OK for pets!

Dr. Brady also draws the comparison between human obesity and overweight pets both being caused by high carb diets.

So to what I feed my dogs, and before I start it’s a fact that some perfectionists will be horrified that I don’t feed oysters, mushrooms, salmon, avocado, quail eggs, duck, chicken livers, baby spinach, green beans..etc.  My adult dogs get boned out lamb flaps and briskets, chicken frames, a few eggs and pet mince containing various beef and lamb offal. They have access to fresh green grass and get the occasional hare off the side of the road for a bit of species appropriate food!

The pups start at about three weeks of age on a mix  that comprises 6 kg of minced chicken frames and legs, 3-4 cups of Diamotaceous Earth, 3L of kefir, 1/3 cup Omega oils and 1/3 cup Big Dog Boost immune booster. The bitches also get some of this mince for the 3 weeks prior to whelping and of course live very well while nursing, staying in good to forward condition. I give a little bit of Kiwi Peak air dried food as a meal topper, it keeps a wonderful shine on their coats.

As the pups get older(about 6-8 weeks) I add 2 kg of the pet mince which contains a good %age of offal to the mix. The pups are also getting chicken wings, boned lamb brisket bits and pieces of chopped up chicken frames. I don’t feed necks because they swallow them whole and it freaks me out, although I’ve never had any problems! It’s quite surprising how early pups can cope with soft bones. I sometimes chop the skinny end off the flaps and they get them too.

Pups are seldom wormed with a proprietary brand wormer because the DE worms them naturally. I try to keep fleas at bay with natural products, but if there’s an outbreak I spread the puppy pens with Neem crystals, ag. lime, sulphur and DE, then give the shed a good soak with a sprinkler. This usually keeps them in check for a few months.

I reared about one hundred pups last year, too many for sure and due to large litter sizes and no losses. They were fat, shiny, healthy, happy puppies. Maybe they would have grown faster on dry puppy food, in fact I noticed when helping a friend tattoo her pups that they were bigger than mine at the same age. 

I’ve seen an older pup go away for 3 weeks’ training and come back at least 3”(9cm?) taller when changed to dry food. My dogs just grow out a bit slower, which I think is good for their joints. They finish up nicely grown, healthy adults who usually live to twelve plus years without arthritis. If fed an optimum, organic diet kelpies will live to over twenty and work well into their teens, but I simply can’t afford to do that. 

I would strongly urge you all to consider feeding at least half raw to your pets. For just one puppy you might find it easier to use the frozen patties from BARF or Big DOG and give bones as well, but when you buy a pup try to keep it on the same diet the breeder has been using and change over slowly. 

This is when pups are at the most stressful time of their lives. Gunky eyes are a sign of their immune system working hard to keep up with the changes(wipe with Colloidal Silver or warm salty water). Kefir is a great  source of probiotics and great for gut health, I consider it very important when raising healthy pups.

Good luck with your next baby!

VACCINATION

This is an article by Dr. Deb Maxwell.

A vet’s summary:

Deb Maxwell A live parvo vaccine – (available only through vet) should give a minimum of 3 years protection, and possibly a lifetime protection. I say should instead of will because: 1. No matter what you do, some animals are non-responders to vaccines. 2. You may not have taken care of the vaccine (e.g. poor transit or storage) and so it loses it potency or effect. 3. All animals are individuals, there is variation. However, research many years ago demonstrated that the C3 live vaccines – distemper, hepatitis and parvo, are very solid effective vaccines conferring very strong and long lived immunity and they found that the dogs in the trials had a minimum of 7 years effectiveness and some it lasted their lifetime. (they were progressively titre tested (check for antibodies) over years and I believe some were subject to real disease challenge). As that was only one study and the companies won’t do studies that long, so won’t guarantee their products for that long, the recommendation from American and Australian vet associations is for these vaccines to be given each 3 years. Also the puppy shots are not boosters. Why are 2 or 3 given then as puppies? If you didn’t vaccinate your puppy until after 16 weeks, it would only need one shot. Now again, conservative vet associations, because the research is a bit lacking, say, give one after 16 weeks, and then one at about 12 months and then each 3 years. So why the earlier ones?? Well if you only vacc at 16 weeks and pup is exposed before then it may become infected. Firstly, if the mother is vaccinated she will confer immunity to the pups for a while, but this is considered to wear off between about 6 weeks and 16 weeks. Give a vaccine while the mother’s passive immunity is in play and there’s a good chance the vaccine won’t “take”. Now almost every pup would have no more passive immunity at 16 weeks, so give vaccine after and the vaccine works. But if the passive immunity runs out at 6 weeks pup not protected and pups of course are much more susceptible to diseases, especially parvo, from which it is a very very expensive exercise to save them if they can be saved. So in high parvo risk areas (e.g. where there has been an outbreak before on the property or a lot of cases locally) a parvo vaccine could be given as much as each two weeks until 16 weeks hoping to protect the pup fairly soon after the passive immunity wears off-whenever that happens to be for that pup (but still a bit of a risk if lots parvo exposure because once the vaccine “takes” it still may be up to 10 days for a protective level of immunity to develop) – that could mean up to 6 shots in that time (but likely parvo only not the C2 on all these). For where there is much less exposure/risk, the typical course is give three puppy shots about 6 weeks, say about 11 weeks and then at 16 weeks. Again pup may not be protected but the risk is lower. SO to make it clear – the initial puppy shots are given in case the maternal immunity is worn off and the pup needs protection, but since you can’t count on the first vaccine working (due to maternal immunity then you just have to keep giving shots hoping eventually one takes and in the meantime the pup has not been exposed to disease). (See notes above on very early vaccination and deaths. JL) So if you have a completely no risk environment you can avoid the puppy shots and wait till 16 weeks. But it’s pretty hard to have such an environment. Parvo is worse than COVID-19! Aside from direct contact with infected dogs and then handling your dogs, parvo lasts in the environment for many months to years, it can be walked in from somewhere else on shoes. The other benefit of the live vaccine when done through your vet in a normal consultation is the vets check for other problems, such as picking up things like heart murmurs etc., which generally are less common in working dogs compared to other breeds, but still do occur.

I also give nosodes, available from HAMPL online. This homeopathic procedure gives immunity equal to vaccines with no side effects.  My puppy buyers are offered the choice of continuing with nosodes or having a C3 at 14 weeks. Vaccinating early is often negated by the immunity the bitch passes on to her pups, and figures in some studies have shown more pups vaccinated early die of parvo than unvaccinated pups.

A couple of years ago some pups coming up with a carrier from Sydney later developed parvo and all but one died. I isolated them when they arrived, luckily, and treated all the other pups with extra nosodes and none got sick. The yard is still quarantined. Since then I have given all my pups travelling by road transport a C3 at least 10 days before leaving here and try to leave it until they are 10 weeks old. Ideally it should be left until 12-14 weeks and that should be the only one needed….ever. Here is some interesting info. As my printer died I’ve used my camera….

59244910409__296BC93D-D672-4DA5-B57D-9AA074418AF0

IMG_3281

IMG_3282

A better option than having frequent boosters is to get a blood test done to check titers as often the cost is comparable. SEE ABOVE. In any case, a pup/dog fed a raw diet develops a strong immune system and is better placed to fight infection.

 HAMPL sells an excellent herbal antibiotic called Infection Fighter which can be used internally and externally on wounds or for internal problems, I use it on myself!

Fleas are always a problem when rearing pups in grassed yards. I am trying Neem granules, powdered sulphur and Pestene powder, soaked in well. This has been very successful.

I try to avoid chemical treatments such as backliners if I possibly can and use a herbal powdered mix with added DE on pups. The following information backs up my decision….copied from the Dogs Naturally website:

Typical Frontline Plus Cases And The Impacts

A five-year old Golden Retriever is brought to the veterinarian with ear and eye discharge three weeks after receiving a dose of Frontline Plus. The symptoms go away within a month.

When the dose of Frontline is repeated, the dog develops an ear infection that improves after about six months, but never goes away. The dog dies from liver cancer two years later.

This is a typical story about Frontline Plus that led Dr Jennifer Ramelmeier to change the way she looked at the treatment. Ramelmeier stopped using it after seeing a connection between its use and cases like this.

Copy (2) of DSC_0097

Many thanks to Marina for all her help and advice, here with Jesse and Cash.

HERE IS SOME INFO POSTED BY DOGS NATURALLY MAGAZINE THAT’S INTERESTING READING:

Phosphorus

Meat is very high in phosphorus and low in calcium. The main function of phosphorus is in forming bones and teeth.

It plays an important role in the body’s use of carbohydrates and fat as well as in synthesizing protein for the growth, maintenance and repair of cells and tissues.

Phosphorus is also crucial for the production of ATP, a molecule the body uses to store energy.

Phosphorus works with the B vitamins. It also helps with muscle contraction, kidney function, heartbeat regularity and nerve conduction.

Calcium

Bone is high in calcium and in phosporus.

According to Dr Ian Billinghurst (author of Give Your Dog a Bone and other well known books on canine nutrition), calcium’s role goes far beyond bone mineralization.

Calcium is essential for neuromuscular, cardiovascular, immune and endocrine function. It’s vital for blood clotting.  Calcium forms the skeletal structure or cytoskeleton within each cell, and every cell in the body depends on calcium to support enzyme functions, bodily signalling and to maintain cell membrane stability.

Dogs need a balance between the amount of phosphorus and calcium they get in their daily diets.

The ratio of calcium to phosphorus should be about 1:1, but preferably with slightly more calcium than phosphorus.

This is especially important in young, growing dogs, who need an adequate supply of raw meaty bones in their diet to provide a good balance of calcium and phosphorus (we’ll talk more about this later).

Feeding all-meat diets (which are are high in phosphorus and low in calcium) to young pups can cause skeletal problems.

According to the Merck Veterinary Manual, insufficient calcium or excess phosphorus can lower calcium absorption and result in irritability, hyperesthesia (oversensitivity to sensory stimuli), and loss of muscle tone.

Calcium deficiency can also cause skeletal demineralization, particularly of the pelvis and vertebrae.

Excess calcium can also interfere with normal healthy bone mineralization and growth, especially in young (under 1 year old) large and giant breed dogs. Large breeds fed excess calcium are more likely to suffer from developmental bone disease such as osteochondrosis (abnormal bone growth).

(NOTE: Still not sure about raw? Click Here to see what 5 dangerous ingredients are in your dog’s food — that AREN’T on the label!)

Balancing The Calcium:Phosphorus Ratio

It might seem daunting to calculate the calcium:phosphorus ratio in a home prepared raw diet for your dog  … but it’s really not that complicated.

Bones are a safe source of dietary calcium and if dogs eat enough of them, the diet will be balanced without a lot of difficult calculations.

Dr Billinghurst explains:

Approximate biological balance is achieved so long as meat alone is not the principal dietary component. That job must be left to the raw meaty bones (RMBs). When a young and growing dog eats RMBs, if the bone to meat ratio of those RMBs is around 1:1, then the balance of calcium to phosphorus is appropriate for bone mineralization and formation.

Dr Billinghurst also says that adult dogs need less calcium and, as long as you’re feeding a raw diet with raw meaty bones, the adult dog’s body will absorb the calcium it needs and leave what it doesn’t in the intestines.

Overall, balancing calcium and phosphorus isn’t all that difficult, as long as dogs receive plenty of bone. In general, any bone content over 10% is plenty although you shouldn’t exceed 25% because dogs need other nutrients too.